Retail Weakness

By Jim Prevor, Editor-in-Chief, Produce Business

Before we analyze the subject further, here are some questions to consider:

• Do vegetarians eat more fresh produce than people who eat meat? Do flexitarians?

• Do flexitarians actually eat less meat than other people, or do they just perceive themselves that way?

• Of those people who identify themselves as vegetarian or flexitarian, are these typically fairly permanent characterizations, or is vegetarianism best thought of as a phase or experiment many people go through at some point in their lives?

• What motivates vegetarianism? Is it about health, a philosophical aversion to hurting animals or peer pressure among certain groups that this is the cool thing to do?

• Is vegetarianism an important value? To what degree would vegetarians refuse to marry meat-eaters? Do vegetarians want to instill vegetarianism in their children?

Some of this may seem obvious, but it is not. One can be a vegetarian and eat loads of french fries, pizza, and chocolate cake. “Mainstream” vegetarians do eat some animal products (dairy, eggs, and honey); vegans, who shun these categories, would forego the pizza and chocolate cake most Americans love.

We don’t actually know the answers to any of these questions, and they point to a need for deeper market research to help inform the trade’s new product development and marketing efforts.

For foodservice, having some vegetarian options is a no-brainer. Much has been written about the “veto power” of one diner to determine where a group will eat out. It is just silly for a restaurant to not offer vegetarian options — especially since even omnivores sometimes just want a vegetarian dish.

It has always been possible for vegetarians to piece together a meal. Even in a steakhouse — that most anti-vegetarian of establishments — it is usually possible to start with a lettuce wedge or tomato-and-onion salad and then put together a vegetable plate with a baked potato, asparagus, mushrooms, etc.

What has changed over time is that vegetarianism, rather than being viewed as an oddity, has become socially acceptable, even virtuous. As a result, many restaurants have institutionalized options for vegetarians so they aren’t second-class citizens having to “piece together” a meal.

And, the growth in ethnic foods, especially Asian dishes — many of which are vegetarian to begin with — has made it easier for restaurants to offer appealing vegetarian options.

When it comes to retail, most good supermarkets have recognized the growth in the number of people looking to avoid eating meat and have instituted fairly substantial soy-based vegetarian centers.

One retail produce weakness is nobody is selling on a national basis fresh-cut or prepared vegetarian entrées in produce departments, although in some stores you can get them in the deli or prepared foods section.

Bryan pinpoints what has long been problematic for the produce industry when he describes his mouth-watering experience at the Culinary Institute. My family did a trip to Tuscany and found the same thing. We stayed in a villa where there was a cooking school, and the chef transformed things like zucchini blossoms into sublime specialties.

Although it is nice to know this is possible, it is sufficiently difficult to achieve these results that it may not rebound to the advantage of the industry. Restaurants with real chefs — places like Chez Panisse in Berkeley — already do masterful things with fresh produce. But who has the time to do those types of things? And who can afford to outsource them every meal?

A family member of mine lived at the Pritikin Institute for a few months. She came out a virtual vegetarian and focused on healthful eating. Unfortunately, she was off the wagon a few months later and, when I asked her why she explained she felt as if she had to spend half her life shopping at Whole Foods and the other half cooking.

We need the “fruit relishes and salsas” that made Bryan’s mouth water; we need the oils, marinades, and sauces he found that made the produce so delectable; we need all this and more sold pre-made at retail in the produce department.

Most produce departments, beautiful and upscale as they may be, are still about selling random ingredients. There may be a recipe rack on the floor somewhere, but we sell eggplants alone and just assume or pray the customer knows what to do with them and has the time, ingredients and expertise to do it.

Vegetarians are a useful group to think about in addressing this issue because they need vegetarian entrées. But here is a secret: People were eating eggplant parmigiana long before they were worried about vegetarianism.

If we address the idea of convenient, easy-to-cook, delicious, healthful items — entrées, side dishes, salads, soups and desserts — all made with fresh produce, they will appeal to vegetarians…and everyone else.

The same applies to getting vegetarians to try a broader array of produce. The problem here is that retailers need to adopt a foodservice mentality. A restaurant chef decides something is good and puts it proudly on the menu: The vegetable of the day is a winter squash medley, the fish is sole, the soup minestrone. Whatever it is, the chef selects it, urges customers to try it and promotes it.

Retailers tend to put things out and see if they sell. But they won’t sell to their full potential if retailers don’t promote them, sample them, tell consumers these were selected for promotion because they are so good.

The sustained promotion will introduce new items to vegetarians…and everyone else.